Bas and I decided on Friday evening, during a walk to Curraghchase (our nearest park here in Limerick), that we would go to Inis Mor on the Aran Islands for the weekend. I've been meaning to go there for a long time, and though Bas had been there a couple of years ago, it had been raining heavily and she hadn't seen that much of the island. So, having checked the weather forecast (sun all weekend!!) we set off early on Saturday, drove to Galway and caught the ferry over. We hired bikes where we arrived and cycled to our hotel. It's been a few years since I was last up on a bike, so I was worried I'd have a sore bum by the end of the day -- and I did!!!! In fact it's still throbbing now!!!!!!!!

But that was the only downside -- otherwise it was an amazing little holiday. The Aran Island are spectacular -- rock virtually everywhere you look, with little tufts of grass and wild flowers jutting out sporadically; wind sweeps in all the time, and the waves of the Atlantic batter the coast 24-7. Once we'd checked into our B&B (Ard Einne -- recommended for anyone who's thinking of going), we cycled down to the end of the island closest to us, and went for a long walk along the cliff. We were the only people there, and I was in seventh heaven as we clambered over rocks, caught the spray from the sea, and stretched out in a rare grassy patch beneath a beautiful blue sky. We saw a couple of fields FULL of rabbits -- more than I've ever seen anywhere else!! Lots of birds and insects. Weird rock formations. It was wonderful.

After a brief stop back at our room, we went to one of the island's famous forts -- this one was called The Black Fort. It was a real trek to get to it -- we had to walk up a long dirt track, then cross a vast rocky expanse, before carefully edging in. I say carefully, because the fort is set right at the edge of a high cliff, and the entrance is at a point where the exterior wall meets the cliff edge -- we had about 4 or 5 feet of land -- one stumble and we were history!!! There wasn't much to see inside, except for the huge, tiered wall of the fort, but I could lie down and look over the edge of the cliff, and we could clamber up the wall and study the scenery from on high. We were the only people there, and it was like stepping back through time. The wind was blowing my hair every which way (it's like Medusa's hair at the moment!), but I didn't care. It was fantastic!!! I hated having to leave, but it was getting late, and eventually we re-traced our steps, went for a bite to eat and a drink at a local pub (where, bizarrely, a group who must have been part of a church choir were singing choir-type songs in one corner!!!), then got an early night.

We were both stiff when we woke on Sunday, but we soon worked the creaks out of our bones and set off for an eight hour cycle round the island. We went along the coast first, saw some seals (well, their heads -- they were out at sea), and visited Dun Aengus, the island's most famous fort. It was incredible, though it didn't stirke me as much as The Black Fort, partly because I'd seen the other fort the day before, but also because it was much more accessible. I love getting off the beaten path, away from the crowds, but Dun Aengus is fairly well developed for tourists -- there's a visitor's centre, a path all the way up to the fort, and busloads of tourists visit it every day. It's a vital feature of the island, and brings in thousands of tourists every year (it's the main reason I wanted to visit the island), but for me the Black Fort was more of a treat, because of its isolation. Still, Dun Aengus was great too. After that we explored some more of the island, then cycled back home (pausing en route for another drink). We had a rest, then got a cab into Kilronan to have dinner. Then we had another early night.

We got up this morning, went for an hour's walk, then cycled back to the ferry and made the long trek home. I was sad to leave the island behind, and I definitely hope to visit again in the not too distant future. Hard to believe it's been on my doorstep all these years and I only got around to visiting now!!! Still, that's often the way -- the places easiest and quickest to get to are often the places we visit last, if at all!!! I sometimes think we only really see the wonders of the world when we set forth as tourists, but it's hard to act like a tourist in your own backyard!!!

Anyway, I loved my little escape to Aran, and though I'm physically very tired now, I feel refreshed at the same time. I'm heading back to the UK on Tuesday for a few days, to do events in Birmingham and Hay, then I finish up on Death's Shadow tour in Listowel, back here in Ireland, on Sunday. If anybody in the UK or Ireland hasn't caught me in action yet, this will be your last chance until the Edinburgh Festival, and then a short October tour when book 8 comes out ...